Located in the very heart of the city, the iconic Is-Suq tal-Belt is known to all of us Maltese. We tell you what makes it so special and how it has been transformed through the ages.
by Jonathan Caruana
Valletta, the UNESCO World Heritage site and an icon of the Maltese islands. Within its fortifications you will find history at every angle, beautiful architecture, delicious cuisine and a thriving nightlife scene. With it’s street market, restaurants and shops scattered around most of the city, Valletta is buzzing most of the time.
Is-Suq tal-Belt as it is today (image: obonparis.com)
What if we told you in the very heart of Valletta you will find a building which encompasses all of these features? There are two distinct markets in Malta’s capital. Valletta hosts an outdoor flea market from Monday to Saturday, until noon, not far off from City Gate, selling various imports consisting of cheap clothing and accessories. However, if you are interested in visiting a landmark indoor market, there is an iconic Victorian-era structure in Valletta, located in Merchants’ Street. It is affectionately known to us Maltese as ‘Is-Suq tal-Belt’.
Located in the very heart of the city, the iconic Is-Suq tal-Belt is known to every Maltese person. All of us have visited the place one time or another. Its importance was confirmed in 2008 when it was scheduled as a Grade One national monument. In 2017, it was given a new lease of life and dragged into the 21st Century. After years of decline, a fair amount of effort was made to give life to the building. The results look quite good.
(Image: Nostalgia Malta / Facebook)
The history of Is-Suq tal-Belt is a long one. Sited between St Paul Street and Merchants Street and directly behind the Grand Master’s Palace, it is located in the very heart of the city. 17th Century maps of Valletta already indicated an open space in this area, most probably for market purposes.
It’s history starts with the cosmopolitan community of Valletta merchants, ship-owners, brokers, money-lenders and salesmen. Many came to Malta seeking work, especially Greeks, Sicilians, French and Italians or for business opportunities.
(Image: Nostalgia Malta / Facebook)
(Image: Nostalgia Malta / Facebook)
The Council of the Order of St John soon realised the potential of such space, and improved market facilities by building a row of small shops. The market was thriving and soon after, Grand Master Nicolas Cotoner expanded the complex through the building of an internal loggia and an upper storey with 22 residential rooms. Originally these were rented but would soon be taken over permanently by the Order.
The market was frequented by merchants of various nationalities, selling all sorts of commodities such as fresh produce, livestock, and even coffee, and chocolate.
With the subsequent British occupation and an ever expanding population, the market became inadequate, with contemporary news sources considering the then structure as small and in need of urgent attention. The most pressing reason was the lack of space.
Works started on the demolition of the old baroque market by the mid 19th Century. Covent Garden market in London was the model for the new Valletta market, as was Les Halles Centrales in Paris. Is-Suq tal-Belt followed a similar design to other markets in Europe.
The design can still be read today in the existing structure, notwithstanding the various transformations, comprising a stone perimeter with a metal structure on the interior supporting the central roofing. Also like other markets, it is not only a celebration of architecture, but also of food and culture of its country.
The old Valletta food market damaged during the war (Image: Petra Caruana Dingli 2018)
Is-Suq tal-Belt experienced the same fate suffered by most of the Grand Harbour area, and was significantly damaged during World War II. Somehow, most of the original ironwork survived. Emergency repairs were carried out and changes were made in the decades that followed. The site was re-modelled as a modern shopping arcade in 1983. It continued to be used as a food market after that, but its occupancy and popularity fell over the years.
Is-Suq tal-Belt interior before regeneration works – (Image: Times of Malta 2016)
Is-Suq tal-Belt just before regeneration works started (Image: valletta2018.org)
In recent years, Is-Suq tal-Belt has been restored and converted into an upmarket food hall, following the wave of economic, social and urban regeneration experienced by Valletta in the last decade. The new ‘Suq’ was opened in early 2018, just in time for the Valletta 2018 European Capital of Culture event.
Is-Suq tal-Belt is still a place where you can shop for food. The Basement level serves as a food market serving fresh fruit and vegetables, meat, delicatessen, bread and various gourmet foods, along with drinks and delicacies.
The main main feature of the place is the diversity of food outlets present at ground floor. The area features two main central bars at the heart of the building, and a variety of food stalls preparing culinary specialties from different world cuisines which will keep your curiosity buzzing and your taste buds tickled.
It is this variety that caters for any type of eater. Whatever cuisine or requirements, you’ll be sure to find something to your liking. Feeling like Italian? Thought you might. At is-Suq tal-Belt, you can find Vecchia Napoli for their popular pizzas.
Sometimes all I really want is a plate of really good pasta. Pasta Affair also has you covered. And if you are in the mood for something sweet, don’t forget to visit Venchi, for great (though not so cheap) chocolate options. You can mix and match any number of flavours you want.
For all you meat-lovers, you will definitely want to try Woodsmoke for some great roasted meats. If you prefer Middle Eastern food, there is KONAK kebabs which has a range of good quality doner meats and sides. They even have a mexican stall for anyone looking for something a bit more spicy; Mexican Delight.
If you’re craving Asian, you’re in for a real treat. The options are endless. A very popular choice at Is-Suq tal-Belt for those craving Asian is actually Pinoy who serve great traditional food from the Philippines.
Have you ever tried Bubble Tea? Tea Fusion has the Bubble Tea fix you need. We’ve not only tried Bubble tea but we have shared our thoughts in this review here. Also, if you’re looking for mochi ice-cream, they have a wide selection of flavours. If you’re unsure what mochi is, feel free to read our article.
As for Maltese food, we have to admit we have never tried Teftif, also specialising in Maltese foods, and which serves a selection of quick, grab-and-go options.
The upper level consists of an open space where functions and events can be hosted, whilst the top part of the building has seen the recent opening of Merkanti Restaurant. We recently visited and reviewed the restaurant. We were impressed with both food as well as design and views. The menu at Merkanti Restaurant offers a variety of traditional Maltese foods which should not be missed.
Merkanti Restaurant
Although we have often enjoyed a drink inside at the Is-Suq bar, at the end of a long day, we also like to chill at Star Bistro, which is situated outside. They serve drinks and even food. If you have any special dietary requirements, do let them know before ordering!
Going to the market was a ritual for many, especially the locals. In a way it still is today. “Immorru sas-Suq?” (shall we go to the market) is a question you’ll still hear frequently. So have we given you enough reasons to check Is-Suq tal-Belt? We’re sure we have, so go on, choose what type of food you feel like, find yourself a table, any table, and just enjoy your visit!
